Discovering The Magic of Place Training for Reactive and Anxious Dogs

Place training for dogs can be a game changer for those living with anxious or reactive dogs, offering a much-needed sense of security, structure and calm. For many of us, daily life with these dogs feels like navigating a constant storm…every walk, visitor, or unfamiliar sound can trigger a cascade of stress, making life challenging for both dog and owner. We often find ourselves searching for ways to provide them with a predictable safe space. While there are many training techniques, one of the most effective and versatile is place training for dogs. It’s more than just an obedience command; it’s about creating a safe and predictable space where your dog can learn to relax and manage their anxieties.

In this blog post, I'm going to take a deep dive into place training for dogs, why it's so important for anxious and reactive dogs, the benefits, where you can use it, how to train it and how it can seamlessly integrate into your daily routine!

What Is Place Training For Dogs?

When it comes to essential things to teach a dog, I fully believe place training should be towards the top of that list. This is such a versatile command that, once learned, can be used anywhere in a bunch of different scenarios!

The basics of this command is being able to send a dog to a certain place (bed, mat, blanket or a specific spot) and have them stay there until they are released. Isn't that just an elongated stay? Well, technically, it is, but place training focuses on creating a safe and predictable zone where your dog can learn to relax, regulate and feel safe. Place training isn't just obedience; it's a way of life; I can guarantee those who use it will tell you the same.

For me, this is now something I love to teach the majority of dogs I work with purely because of its versatility, and the other benefits that come with it too.

Benefits of Place Training For Dogs

  • #1 - Promotes Calmness
    When sending a dog to a “place”, you encourage them to settle down regardless of what is going on around them. Obviously, this takes time to build up, but by slowly adding duration and distraction to the mix, owners can start using this in situations where a dog may have chosen chaos instead of calmness e.g. if you have guests over or if you want to give your house a clean and your dog has a personal vendetta against the hoover, or even if your dog like to bark out the window at every leaf that blows by.
  • #2 - Provides Clear Boundaries
    What I love about this kind of training is that the “place” is an obvious spot. When you ask a dog to stay, chances are they will move around and fidget, e.g. if you put a dog in a down (stay implied), they may shuffle around, even pop out of the down, which we don’t want, but a place is a designated spot. Your dog doesn't have to lie down, they just have to remain on that spot.

    This is why I always recommend starting with a raised cot or a blanket that they don't use anywhere else. A lot of people try this with a bed, but the issue is that your dog is allowed off their bed in other situations; you don't want to confuse them. With a place position, you don't come off until you are told and the boundaries of the place make it clear.


  • #3 - Encourages Independence
    If you have a velcro dog, one that follows you everywhere, or one that focuses on your every move and constantly needs reassurance, place training builds up a level of independence. A lot of dogs these days struggle to go 5 minutes without attention or think they are the centre of attention and everything revolves around them. The issue with this is it can cause anxious behaviours, separation issues and issues with insecurity. By incorporating place into your daily routine, you give your dog something to do, while you do things.

    Sending your dog to their place instead of letting them follow you to the toilet, or putting your dog in a place position while you relax and watch a movie. These are things you should be able to do regardless of whether you have a dog. Place training helps dogs find comfort in independence by giving them a secure and safe area where they don't have to feel excluded or rely on external validation.
  • #4 - Versatility and Generalisation
    Once learned, 'place' can be generalised to various environments and scenarios. Whether you're at home, at a friend's house, at the pub, in the car, at the park, on a hike, outside the store, at the vet etc. The possibilities are endless, but even more so, it allows you to bring your dog to places (no pun intended) you wouldn't have thought of taking them in the first place because of behaviour issues.

    With my dog Jasper, I taught him to “place” on a raised cot; then I moved it to a doormat. I took that doormat with us everywhere, which allowed him to chill out with me at the pub and on sunny days out with friends etc. Now he's at a stage where I can point to a surface, ask him to place, and he’ll drop down happily and wait because he knows nothing bad ever happens in a place.
  • #5 - Boosts Confidence
    Place training is great for boosting confidence, especially in those who are struggling with anxious behaviours or insecurity. We already know this provides a safe space that, if trained correctly, is also a positive association.

    A dog can learn to cope with their emotions and challenges in situations they may have struggled with before.

    My favourite thing is that the place position gives the dog a task; instead of insecurely barking at every sound outside or constantly feeding off the attention of you or your guests, place training gives them the task of being in place, which really can build that confidence around these distractions. As they become more proficient, their confidence grows, leading to a more relaxed and resilient dog.

Why Place Training Is Perfect For Anxious and Reactive Dogs

Anxious and reactive dogs often feel overwhelmed by their environment, especially when they don't have any structure. This is where place training shines! By teaching “place” you can give your dog structure and security in environments they previously may have struggled in with overwhelm.

Imagine taking your dog to the pub; normally, they may beg for attention from others, fidget, get bored, react negatively at other people or dogs, etc. By having a designated safe zone, that same dog can learn that this is a safe and also predictable space where they don't have to be worried about anything going on around them.

Place training for dogs empowers owners to advocate for their dogs, promotes calmness, gives dogs a clear 'job,' and helps them to regulate their emotions. Here's a closer look at why place training is particularly beneficial for these dogs…

  • #1 - Creates a Safe Haven
    If You have an anxious or reactive dog, one of the best things you can provide for them is a safe zone/haven. This is a designated area that your dog can go to when they feel overwhelmed and just want to take a break from the world (we've all been there).

    Safe zones tend to be away from people and triggers and allows a dog to decompress and reset. Now, I normally recommend setting up a room, a crate, or a bed where a dog can retreat and not be disturbed.

    A “place” kind of works the same way, unlike regular safe zones, this is usually still somewhere that people and triggers are present, BUT it is also somewhere that when taught right, your dog should feel safe and secure, and should understand that regardless how overwhelming things are, you have things under control. Knowing they have a reliable refuge point in different environments and around triggers can significantly help anxious and reactive dogs.

    #2 - Allows You to Advocate for Your Dog
    A common reason that can trigger anxiety and reactivity in dogs is the feeling of being unsafe. As mentioned, overwhelm is a big factor; the last thing you want in overwhelming situations is for your dog to feel unsafe or like they have to protect and advocate for themselves. I see this a lot in dogs that get forced to interact with people. The dog is already in a situation they feel uncomfortable in, and now they have a random person reaching down to touch them. Both anxious and reactive dogs are well within their rights to react. Would you let someone randomly reach out to you in public?

    Even though I made this mistake with my dog Jasper, even though he seemed social and didn't react, it took me a while to realise he was actually uncomfortable and pretty overwhelmed in these situations.

    By teaching your dog a solid “place” you're giving them a way to communicate their need for space and calm. You can direct them to their spot when you notice signs of stress or anticipate a challenging situation, effectively advocating for their well-being. This could be a bench in public where you can stand in front of them and advocate, even between your legs is a great alternative to a place position.

    This not only can provide comfort in these situations, but it's also going to be a massive boost in trust; your dog won't feel like they have to advocate or protect themselves from unwanted interactions.

    #3 - Promotes Calmness
    When trained correctly, a dog will associate their “place” with calmness. You may have a dog that is experiencing stress and overwhelm, they may be pacing around after a walk, they may be begging for attention when you have guests over (and act out when they don't get it), they may be overtired, or they may be barking their heads off out the window etc. Whatever the reason, putting them on a “place” can shift them from that state of arousal to a more calmer (or relaxed) state.

    Consistent practice out of these situations will reinforce this association, making the 'place' a powerful tool for managing anxiety and reactivity. Take your time to work and develop this association, don't try rushing it so you can take your dog to all these new places otherwise, you may find it has the opposite effect (there's nothing worse than being in a new environment and your dog is overwhelmed but also has a negative association to their place!

    #4 - Gives Your Dog a Job
    As mentioned before, a “place” command is a job. You are giving your dog a job to do…you-stay-on-there-until-released!

    When you give a dog a job, you avoid them finding their own things to do. For example, a lot of people struggle with unwanted behaviours in the home because their dog is finding their own things to do (and probably because they haven't had their needs fully met). Counter surfing, destructive behaviours, pacing around…all these behaviours are dogs trying to find something to do!

    This is why along with making sure that you meet your dog's needs every day, you provide structure like a “place” position to encourage rest and relaxation. If your dog struggles to settle after walks and you leave them to their own devices, chaos will probably follow. If you put your dog on “place” with a frozen stuffed Kong after a walk you are providing a structured task that engages their mind and body, and allows for your dog to regulate and relax.

    #5 - Allows for Self Regulation
    If you have a dog that struggles with self-regulation, one of the best things you cando for them is learning to be comfortable with doing nothing and learning to self-regulate in these moments.

    This relates pretty closely to the promoting calmness point made above. Teaching this in the right way and adding duration and distraction slowly will allow a dog to start being able to regulate their overwhelm and emotions in this period of time.

    If you have a reactive dog and they react on a walk, chances are they will struggle to regulate that stress, and now they are more tense and likely to react (trigger stacking). We need to try helping them regulate in this moment with fun movement, decompression/stimulation OR using a place position for them to regulate on.

When I started taking “place” outside with Jasper, I found after reactions, I'd “place” him on a bench for a few minutes, let him reset and breathe and bring this arousal down. Once at a good baseline, I'd give a quick scatter feed before continuing on our walk. This combination really helped bring him down and the more we practiced and worked on it, the less time he'd have to spend regulating, because it almost became second nature that when on a “place” calmness happens.

This ability to self-regulate is crucial for managing reactivity and anxiety, enabling dogs to navigate challenging situations with greater composure.

How To Use Place Training In Your Everyday Life

One of the best things about place training for dogs is the versatility. Once taught properly, you can generalise this to a number of situations which may have normally caused your dog overwhelm and over reactions.

I use this mainly at home with Jasper, but we do make use of it in the “real world”, in situations I never thought he'd be able to handle. Below are just a few of the ways that you can integrate this into your daily routine…

  • #1 - Prepping Food
    If you have a dog that constantly pesters you when you're making food or one that uses that opportunity to counter surf or preoccupy themselves with mischief around the house, this is for you!

    Putting your dog on “place” when cooking can avoid your dog pestering you or getting into any mischief around the house while you are busy. Throwing a reward every now and then to our dog while they are calm will help them realise that staying on a “place” can be equally as rewarding than causing chaos.

    #2 - Having Guests Over
    The most common time to use this command is when you have guests over. Dogs can get overexcited, uncomfortable or nervous when you have guests over. This can cause them to pester guests or ensure that distance is kept via barking and overreacting.

    When you know you are having guests over, set your dog up for success with a simple “place” command. Give them something to do such as a Kong to keep them preoccupied but also let guests know they can't disturb your dog there as it is a safe place.

    If your dog does end up calming down and seems like they can handle it, you can release them to say hi but all this helps provide a structured behaviour and prevents over-greeting or reactive barking.

    #3 - While Cleaning
    If you have a dog that has a personal vendetta against the hoover, or a tendency to walk across mopped floors, or you just want them out of the way of cleaning supplies; you can use “place” to give them a designated spot to go and wait while you do the needed chores.

    This allows you to focus on getting things cleaned instead of your dog causing chaos behind your back which you;ll probably have to clean up…again.

    #4 - When You Want to Watch TV/Relax
    We all know how tough it can be when you just want to relax after a long day. The issue is,if you have a dog, sometimes they see this as prime time to be overly demanding.

    I like to use the “place” position when I want to relax and watch some TV. When it comes to trying to create a peaceful atmosphere at this time, IK tend to reward my dog with affection instead of food or anything too overstimulating when it's relaxation time like this, although, some dogs may struggle with this at first and may require something like a Kong (if this is the case).

    #5 - When Your Dog is Overstimulated
    Once you can start understanding the signs of overstimulation, you can always redirect your dog to their 'place' to help them decompress. This provides a safe space for them to calm down and regulate their emotions.

    If your dog is overstimulated, giving them something that's low arousal may be an option to consider before putting on a “place” to set a dog up for success by reducing that overstimulation before putting them on “place” and expecting them to settle down.

    #6 - On Hikes and Walks to Make Space
    Having a “place” command is great when out on was or on hikes to create space between your dog and other dogs or people. Now, you can carry a mat with you and use that, but in reality, if you spot a situation unravelling that is going to test your dog, you don't want to faff around with a mat.
    One thing that I have worked on with Jasper is anything can be a place if you really believe it! When on hikes or walks, I make use of benches, tables, raised walls, those large boulders etc. He understands the concept of ‘I wait here until you tell me I can come off’.

    This helped so much with his reactivity as I could create that distance, and if the dog came closer, it would literally have to go through me first. Jasper started being able to trust me more to advocate in those situations which actually made walking him in these environments a lot easier.

    #7 - At Pubs/Cafes
    If you want to be able to take your dog to public spaces such as bars and cafes, one way to help them feel more comfortable, safe and confident in these environments is by using a “place”.

    These places (no pun intended) can be overwhelming with different people, new smells, other dogs etc. By giving your dog a designated space that they can relax and not be disturbed (advocate for your dog and don't let people or other dogs disturb your dog while they are on their safe haven), you can take them with you to these parts of your life without chaos developing (maybe a little chaos).

How To Start Place Training Your Dog: A Step-by-Step Guide

  • Step 1: Choose Your "Place"
    This is sometimes the most difficult stage because you can technically start with anything. I've found a lot of success in getting something for a “place”, this means not using a bed that you already have.

    I like starting with something that has clear boundaries which is why a raised bed/cot is always my favourite to start with. Anything on the floor can potentially lead a dog into creeping off. I've had dogs that when they rearrange position come off mats.

    Step 2: Introduce the "Place"
    Depending on how you train your dog, you can either start by luring them onto their “place”, marking and rewarding the behaviour…or you can teach this through free shaping as well. Each method is pretty similar, you want to mark and reward your dog getting on the place.

    Keep repeating this process until your dog understands the assignment, once they understand what you want, start to add a name to the behaviour so they can associate the command with the action.

    This is where a lot of your training will take place, making sure your dog understands this. I like to addleash pressure or use a hand signal to direct if a dog gets stuck (hand signals are great early on as this will help when you want to generalise the behaviour).

    Step 3: Build Duration
    Once your dog is constantly stepping onto their “place” with minimal pressure/help, it's time to start building duration.

    DO NOT start with high expectations! You want to start with a few seconds and slowly increase this duration over time. A lot of owners make the mistake of being like “my dog knows this” and expect them to hold a place for an unreasonable starting time.

    This may work for some dogs, but a lot of dogs will make mistakes, and we want to set our dogs up for success rather than failure. Start easy and slowly increase the timing. If they step off, gently lure them back on and start again.

    If they keep stepping off, or seem uncomfortable with the duration, you are rushing the process!

    Step 4: Add Distance
    Now that your dog can handle being on a “place” for short periods of time, it's time to add distance. This will potentially cause a lot of dogs to slip up, but this allows us to teach them that even if we move, the same rules apply.

    When you put your dog on “place”, take a step back…if they step off, gently tell them no and lure them back on and start again. Be patient, as this is now a different scenario for the dog and may take a few reps to understand.

    Once it starts to click, add more distance, take a few more steps back, walk around your dog, leave the room and come back etc. You want your dog to understand that regardless of what you do and where you go, this is their job and you will be back and they will be rewarded for their efforts.

    Step 5: Introduce Distractions
    Now that your dog is starting to get the hang of things, it is time to start adding some distractions. You want to start easy, if your dog loves fetch and goes crazy at the sight of a ball make sure you avoid starting with that as your first distraction. Remember we want to set our dogs up for success rather than failure.

    Things such as movement (which they should be getting used to due to distance training), toys, dropping food, getting down to their level (but not actually releasing them).

    We want to set up our dogs for success but we do want to also test them, let them understand that regardless of what goes on if they aren't released they must stay where they are.

    Using higher value rewards may help a lot more here, you can't expect your dog to hold a “place” when the reward is kibble and you've dropped shredded chicken on the floor!

    Step 6: Generalise to Other Surfaces
    Once you feel your dog understands the assignment and can hold some time on their “place” and around a few distractions you can start to generalise on other surfaces.

    As mentioned earlier, I like pointing to the “place” when I teach it, dogs are great at following human gestures, so if I point to another surface and ask for a place, I want them to follow the gesture and go to said place.
    You can teach this by putting a mat or a bed on top of the original “place” and slowly taking that away. Then you can start moving this to different areas of the house showing that regardless of the scenario “place” means “place”.

    Do not rush this process, if your dog is struggling, break it down, help them through luring or leash pressure. Help them understand what you want and reward them when they manage to do it because the next step is when you take this into the real world!

    Step 7: Practice in Different Environments
    For this step, don't take your dog to the pub straight away and try to practice this. You want to take them somewhere that is a low distraction that you can build up upon. A great starting point is your back garden! Or out in your drive! Or if you have neither then take to a quiet area somewhere such as a low traffic car park or in the distance of a park etc.

    Once they start doing well in these less distracting environments, start adding duration, distance and distraction again so that you can paint the same picture you did indoors for your dog.

    Once they start getting the hang of this, start to take this to different and slightly more challenging areas but make sure you are going at your dogs pace! Don't rush this otherwise you will find yourself coming back to the foundation steps!

Key Tips…

  • Keep training sessions short and positive, always ending on a successful note (if possible).
  • Use high-value treats to motivate your dog when you are working in more distracting environments. Kibble won't cut it for some scenarios!
  • Make sure you are meeting your dog's needs, you can't expect a dog to settle on “place” if they are filled with energy or constantly overstimulated.
  • Be patient and consistent. Every dog learns at their own pace and if they really are struggling break down the steps into smaller steps!
  • Set your dog up for success!
  • Avoid using the “place” as punishment or even time out in the beginning!
  • If you want your dog to settle make sure you don't skip or rush distraction and duration! A lot of people don't proof behaviours and then wonder why their dog can't perform in new environments!

FAQs and Troubleshooting Common Issues

  • What is the difference between stay and place?
    I get this question a lot when introducing people to the concept of “place”. When it comes to a stay, in my opinion, the dog is waiting in position to be released, and for many dogs this can be frustrating and more tempting to break around distractions as there is no designated space, which in turn can be tricky for impulsive and anxious dogs.

    With a “place” position, the boundaries are clear, you-stay-on-that-place, and when trained correctly this becomes less about waiting for the release and more about actively relaxing within that zone.
  • How long does it take for a dog to get used to a place?
    It really depends on the dog! Some dogs that are naturally calm and receptive to training may be able to pick this up like it is nothing. Where on the other hand those dogs that aren't used to staying still may require more patience.

    Other factors that can affect this are whether you are training in the right environments, how well your timing is, whether your dog's needs are being met fully beforehand.
  • How long should a dog stay in place command?
    This is all down to you at the end of the day, but it also depends what your dog is comfortable with/you have trained. You can use this for short periods through the day as decompression but some may want to use this for longer periods such as when they want to relax and watch TV or even a film.

    The key things to remember are that if you are wanting your dog there for an elongated period of time then make sure you have met their needs beforehand. You can't expect to watch a 2 hour film and your dog to stay on “place” when they're full of beans.
  • What are the benefits of the place command?
    The biggest benefit of teaching a place command in my opinion is the versatility of it. Once you have taught this and built upon distraction and duration, you can start to generalise it to different environments too.

    Along with this, it is relatively easy to teach, helps encourage calmness and independence, great for decompression and more! Check out this section higher up in this post!
  • What size should a place board be?
    You want to make sure that whatever you choose for “place” is comfortable for your dog. I always recommend if you are unsure of sizing, always size up. There is nothing wrong with a place being too big for a dog but when it is too small it can be uncomfortable and cause pressure on the joints from trying to stay there.
  • Why is place training important?
     Place training for dogs is a great way to encourage relaxation and decompression. It also allows reactive and anxious dogs to settle and feel safe in situations they may have struggled with previously.

    You can find more on the importance higher up in this post if you missed it!
  • Why won’t my dog stay in place?
    If you have a dog that keeps breaking from position then chances are you are trying to get them to hold that position longer than they actually can (which just means to go back to some duration/distraction training) but a very common issue is that needs haven't been met dog has too much energy and is making impulsive decisions because of it.

Final Thoughts

As you can see, place training for dogs isn't just a command, it's a lifestyle!


Mastering this versatile skill can enable owners to take their dogs along in situations they may have been too overwhelmed in before and make choices through impulse, reactivity, insecurity, anxiety etc.

By taking the time to teach your dog this skill properly you can help make them feel more secure and safe in new environments and around triggers (if done correctly)! If you are struggling with a reactive or anxious dog, I can't recommend enough teaching a solid “place” command, it may change your lives!!!

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